My radiator only gets warm at the bottom while the top part remains cool, what's the problem?
This is almost certainly caused by an accumulation of gas at the top of the radiator which prevents the hot water circulating inside your central heating from reaching this part. This gas may be hydrogen produced when steel radiators corrode, or air forced out of solution from the system-water after the system is commissioned.
To fix this problem open the air bleed valve at the top of the radiator, you should then hear the trapped gas rush out. Close the valve once you detect water coming out. System water may stain decoration so have a cloth to hand when doing this procedure. Also, if your central heating is an unvented (sealed) system (as it usually will be if you have a combi boiler), check the system pressure remains within the specified limits after bleeding a radiator.
Corrosion can be prevented by the addition of an inhibitor to the system water. Air forced out of solution can only be of a finite amount and eventually the system water will be air free (as long as there are no leaks).
My radiator only gets warm at the top while the bottom part remains cool, what's the problem?
This could be due to the accumulation of sludge at the bottom of the radiator. This sludge is produced during corrosion of steel radiators. The other reason for radiators not warming correctly is blocked or faulty valves. If the radiator has a thermostatic valve remove the head from the valve body and check the pin can still be pushed down ( considerable force may be necessary so be sure the rad. is secured to the wall )
The cast-Iron gutters on my house are leaking and rusty. Should I have them all replaced with plastic?
If the majority of the existing iron pipe work can be overhauled and reused then I would source new iron to replace that which cannot. Your overhauled iron guttering should outlast any plastic substitute and will look better too.
Water is dribbling out from my overflow pipe!, what should I do?
This requires immediate attention to avert the risk of a serious flood in the house. When your overflow pipe discharges water, it indicates that a float controlled (ball) valve in one of your water storage cisterns has failed.
A traditional house plumbing system will have at least three water storage cisterns and each one will have an overflow pipe: A cold feed cistern (water tank) supplying water to the hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard, a smaller expansion cistern to accommodate the increase in the volume of the central heating water when this becomes hot and of course a cistern at every WC. The first two cisterns mentioned above are usually located in the loft space.
To resolve this problem first turn off the mains water supply to the house. Open the cold water tap in the kitchen to make sure the supply is off. In all honesty the easiest way to resolve the problem of a faulty float (ball) valve is to replace it with a new diaphragm type ball valve. These days such a valve should not cost more than £6 or so. If you feel you are more competent then dismantle the valve and replace the rubber seal. Replacements are available at any plumber's merchants. If you can't find the source of the overflow pipe then turn off the mains water supply and call a plumber.
